Freshwater Aquarium Algae- Friend Or Foe?

Freshwater aquarium algae are threats to aquatic life in a fish tank. They adapt well in an enclosed environment where there are available nutrients. They compete with aquarium plants for nutrients and decaying algae consume dissolved oxygen in the water. If they are present in small area of the aquarium, they can be supplements for some fish species but if uncontrolled, they contaminate water fast because they are short-lived. In general, all types of algae can have some benefits to aquatic life as long as they do not compete by multiplying rapidly.

Some algae species are edible like many of the seaweeds and they are sources of food in many parts of the world. There are hundreds of edible species and they are found to contain vitamins and minerals. They are also being processed as fertilizers and livestock feed. One branch of aquaculture is algaculture which is dedicated in the farming of algae. In freshwater aquariums, there are quite a number of algae and they survive through the nutrients in the water. In some cases freshwater aquarium algae serve as food for aquarium inhabitants like shrimps and snails but if their growth is not controlled, they could be a threat to other aquatic life.

Commonly found in new aquarium setups are the brown algae. They also flourish in low-light aquariums where phosphate level is high while the nitrogen is low. They are a slimy and soft algae that are found in the aquarium glass, in the substrate, and even in decorations. It has been observed that brown algae go away in the presence of strong lights but may still remain in shadowy areas of the tank. In contrast, the green spot algae thrive in aquariums with strong light. They appear as green spots on aquarium plants and the tank glass. This type of freshwater aquarium algae is hard and appears if phosphate and carbon dioxide levels are low. buy led aquarium lights for your fish tank.

The hair algae and thread algae appear as strings in the water. They grow in aquarium tanks if there are excess amounts of iron. They can easily be removed by twirling a toothbrush around them. Thread algae grows on leaves of plants and normally found on leaf edges and can reach lengths of 30 cm. Hair algae grow at the base of plants and on the substrate. They have green-gray color and grow to about 4 cm. Most aquarists welcome hair algae because fish like Angels and Barbs consume them as supplements to their food. Freshwater aquarium shrimps like the caridina japonica consume the algae in the likes of the thread algae.

A kind of algae that enhance the look of a tank is the beard algae. Algea of this kind creates a carpet appearence of algea across the decor and plants in your aquarium like a carpet. They are formed closer to the light source. They are soft and slippery and rapidly grow to a maximum of 3 cm. Beard algae need a stable constant light source and an lack of nutrient balance in your aquarium to get the perfect conditions they like. They are common in aquariums without plants and can be very difficult to remove manually. The best method of controlling them is to introduce species of fish that would gladly consume them. Fish like the Rosy barbs, Siamese algae eaters, and Plecos would be a great help in reducing them. Before introducing them to the existing species in tank, make sure that they are compatible tank mates for the inhabitants presently in your tank. If they can not adapt to the present aquarium setup, they have little use in controlling the beard algae.

Freshwater aquarium algae in tiny patches add color and life to the aquatic ecosystem. Aside from serving as food for some aquatic life, they provide a sort of hiding place for fish fry. They are also good indicator that there is an imbalance in the system. They can show that there may be an excess of nutrients in the water. Excess nutrients may indicate that there is an overfeeding of fish and that an unhealthy plant is excreting some nutrients. They may also indicate that there a spike in certain substances that can cause harm to the fish and plants.

The growth of freshwater aquarium algae depends on the existing conditions inside the tank. Three ways that algae can thrive in an enclosed ecosystem within your aqaurium. These necessities are water, light, and nutrients that are basic in all aquariums. Controlling these sources of life for algae is the major step in preventing them to grow and cause some damage. Light can be controlled by placing the aquarium far from the sunlight and artificial light must not be used more than eight hours per day. The light must also not be too bright and an automatic switch with a timer should be installed.

Aquarium fish eating habits are different in every species. With algea, you want to try not to feed them at all in your tank as they grow rapidly and preventing the start is the best strategy. If fish have eaten and there are excess foods in the water, remove them immediately. Aside from removing floating wastes and excess foods in the water, changing part of the water will reduce the chances of phosphate and nitrate build up. Change at least 10 to 15% of the water once a week and scrape off any algae sticking on the glass at the same time. Testing the water from time to time is a good monitoring practice. You must stop algae grownth and you do this by destroying the perfect conditions that support their grownth in your tank. more about Freshwater Aquarium information please visit our website

How to Grow Freshwater Aquarium Plants

Real plants do wonders for aquariums, providing fish with oxygen and even food. They keep the water chemistry more balanced, and provide scenery for you and hiding places for fish and other tank inhabitants. They’re easy to care for, too.

Aquarium plants are part of our biological filtration. They do this by helping to remove harmful ammonia (which fish naturally excrete into the water). Many aquatic plants will help remove ammonia but not nitrites. Some aquarists use this information in natural aquariums. When planting aquatic plants, we can create new underwater worlds, or try to imitate nature.

Select the plants you want to grow. It pays to do a bit of reading at this point, so check out aquarium forums and other sources of information. Consider the tank size, the scene you wish to produce and the size you want your plant(s) to be. Remember, plants grow! Want something with lots of leaves, or more of a moss? How about something your fish will be able to eat?

You can find tiny, dwarf aquarium plants that grow only an inch or two tall, or obtain much larger plants for larger tanks.

Get a cutting of the plant you want to grow. Either get an inexpensive, small cutting and wait for it to grow larger or purchase a more costly, larger plant. Plants can be obtained at local pet shops, or a hobby specialist online can provide you with cuttings,usually for a small cost. Either way, be careful of what you introduce to your tank. Plants can carry physical inhabitants from snails and shrimp to bacteria and diseases. Always look for a source that seems to practice good tank hygiene.

Inspect the plant closely for snails and other visitors. Some of the tiniest water snails, no more than a couple of millimeters long, are rapid breeders. Unless you have loaches or other fish that will snack on them, they’ll quickly take over your tank. You may quarantine a new plant outside your tank for a few days, to see if any snails appear.

Most aquarium plants prefer to live entirely submerged, so don’t let them dry out. If your tank is not quite ready or if you want to grow more of your plants than will fit in a tank, use a bucket or bin of water.

Anchor the plants. Depending on the plant, this may be mostly an aesthetic matter, to keep them from bobbing around loose. For mosses, consider tying them loosely with string to a rock until they become established.

In general, do not bury the rhizomes, which usually are thicker and greener than roots or stem, in gravel, as burying them can cause the whole plant to quickly die, also try not to bury the crown just above the roots on other plants that need to be in the substrate .

Provide aquarium light. Aquarium plants, like any others, require light for photosynthesis. Check the light requirements of the plants you are choosing, many require high amounts of added light. Low light plants will do well if your tank has plenty of light from windows. Otherwise, plan to light your tank with a led aquarium lights.

Add fish. While not strictly required, fish waste will help to nourish the plants. The plants, in turn, will keep the water conditions better for the fish by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen during the daytime, at night the plants of course give off CO2. Some plants are good at removing ammonia or nitrites. If you don’t have fish already, wait a week after adding the plants before you introduce them to the lush environment you’re creating.

Change the water periodically. Plants do not need water changes the same way that fish do, but it is still a good idea to change the plant water when changing your fish water. Do not siphon in your plant bed, as you may kill and injure them. Run your siphon over the top of the soil in which the plants are planted, and make sure you don’t damage them.

Remove algae. Algae growing on tank walls or on plant leaves competes with plants for light. You can remove algae manually by scrubbing or scraping the walls of your tank weekly when changing the water and rubbing the plant’s leaves gently between your fingers. The far easier method, though, is to let your tank’s inhabitants do the job for you. Shrimp and several catfish eagerly feed on algae and can help to keep your tank far cleaner with little or no effort on your part.

Divide or prune the plants if they outgrow your tank. Depending on your tank and your plants, you may find you have too much plant soon. Choosing slow-growing plants can help keep them small, but it can also mean having less plant and waiting longer for your plants to fill out. Find the right balance for your tank. more infomation please visit our blog thanks for reading.

How to Plant an Aquarium

Planting an aquarium provides a more natural, healthier environment for aquatic life. However, to beginners, planting an aquarium can seem like a daunting task. This article will give you a step by step guide to planting your aquarium.

First determine how much lighting you have. Most plants need at least 2 watts per gallon to grow properly. If necessary, upgrade your lighting. highly recommend led aquarium lights for your aquarium tank.

Next, figure out what plants you would like to grow. Beginners are recommended to start with easy plants that do not need a lot of light and do not require CO2. Here is a list of some very basic plants

Substrate is vital for successful plant growth. Plants can be grown in normal gravel, but your choices will be limited, as most plants do much better in a sand substrate. Whatever you choose, make sure you layer at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick and it is advisable to put a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of eco complete or a similar plant substrate underneath. This will provide nutrients for the plants.

Plants are notorious snail carriers, so when you bring your plants home, check the leaves and stems thoroughly for snails or snail egg cases.

Most plants will come in small containers when you buy them. Gently remove the plant from the container and use a toothpick to untangle the roots if the plant has become root bound.

Use a pencil or wooden dowel to make a depression in the substrate. Gently place the plant in the depression and cover its roots with substrate. Some plants will die if you accidentally cover the crown of the plant with substrate, so be careful.

Do not fertilize your plants during the start up faze (the first 3-4 weeks). After that, you can start fertilizing with a liquid or tablet fertilizer. Make sure you choose one that contains essential micro nutrients like iron. If you are on well water, the water will contain many of these micro-nutrients already.

Enjoy your planted tank!

Understand coral beauty angelfish care

Ask an expert aquarist to mention some of the most sought after aquarium fish and you will find coral beauty angelfish in the list. Characterized by presence of two spines, the scientific name of coral beauty angelfish is Centropyge bispinosus. Common names are dusky angel and two-spined angel. It is a dwarf version of marine angelfish, having bright purple color head and fins, with yellow or orange stripes in the body. Its vibrant color enhances the aesthetic value of any aquarium setup. Caring for coral beauty angelfish is not a concern, as it thrives well in a wide range of aquarium conditions.

Coral Beauty Angelfish Information

The natural habitat of coral beauty angelfish is the Indo-Pacific ocean. It can be maintained in a regular saltwater aquarium or reef aquarium setup. At maturity, coral beauty angelfish grows to about 4 inches in size. In short, moderate tank size is not a an issue for rearing this beautiful fish. It is sold in most aquarium centers, that too at a relatively cheap price. Refer to the following coral beauty angelfish facts and decide whether you can keep them in your aquarium or not:

Coral Beauty Angelfish Care
Coral beauty angelfish is extremely hardy, as compared to other dwarf angelfish. For rearing it, the ideal tank conditions are alkaline water (pH 8.1 – 8.4), moderate temperature (72o – 78o F), high light intensity and lots of live rocks. Though coral beauty angelfish is usually quite peaceful, it may be aggressive to other tank inhabitants. Another important thing to be noted is setting up a large sized fish tank (at least 30 gallon). In general, coral beauty angelfish is resistant to diseases.

Coral Beauty Angelfish Food
The best part with coral beauty angelfish diet is that it is omnivorous. Hence, you will get variety of foods for feeding your pet fish. Spirulina, marine algae and small live foods are good options. In between, supplement the fish diet with dried seaweeds. Also, various brands of coral beauty angelfish foods are sold at supply centers. Feeding 2 – 3 times daily is sufficient for coral beauty angelfish.

led aquarium lights for growing coral beauty angelfish

Coral Beauty Angelfish Reproduction
As far as sexual dimorphism is concerned, a male coral beauty angelfish is slightly larger than the female. However, it is hard to differentiate between males and females, when kept in groups in fish tanks. Being an egg scattering species, breeding coral beauty angelfish is very difficult in captivity and/or aquarium. Spawning may take place in captivity under dark condition, but the young ones hardly survive to adulthood.

Coral Beauty Angelfish Lifespan
In the natural habitat, the lifespan of coral beauty angelfish is recorded to be 10 – 15 years. Provided that you maintain the optimal water conditions required for this angelfish and feed healthy diet, it may survive for more than 8 years. However, a life expectancy of 15 years is not likely under captive conditions. In order to extend its life expectancy, maintain the water conditions in a similar way to its native habitat.

In the aquarium, add lots of live rocks to provide hiding place and grazing base for coral beauty angelfish. At times, it disturbs the corals, particularly when there is food scarcity. In short, coral beauty angelfish may not be an excellent choice for keeping together with live corals. Hence, if you have a reef aquarium, take advice from fish keepers while choosing coral beauty angelfish for your aquarium.  more infomation please visit

In Wall Reef Aquarium

In Wall Reef Aquarium

How would you design an in-wall reef aquarium so that a chiller would not be needed? It requires a bit of improvisation, but I accomplished this for a new client.

I received a phone call from a lady who needed me to move the contents of her 90-gallon, in-wall reef aquarium to a free-standing, 120-gallon aquarium in her new home. The gentleman who bought her old house requested an estimate for bringing the 90-gallon back into commission as a reef aquarium. The tank wasn’t big, so I wanted to make sure that I made up for this by equipping it with great filtration and very bright lighting, all without causing too much heat to build up inside the cabinetry.

In Wall Reef Aquarium

In many cases, a chiller would be used to make certain the water temperature does not exceed 80° to 82°F, but not only was there zero space to add a chiller, it is also a huge mistake to put a chiller in a tight, enclosed, poorly ventilated space. A chiller dumps the heat that it removes to cool the water down, just like a window air conditioner, so it will seriously heat up the air in the cabinet. Also, the cooler the air it’s allowed to draw in, the more efficiently it will cool the water.


Right away I knew I was going to use LED aquarium light on this system. LED aquarium lights have come a long way since even a couple of years ago, and using T5 fluorescents or metal halides wouldn’t have worked because too much heat would have been created inside the cabinetry. LEDs do produce some heat, but much less than either of the aforementioned light sources. When left on for an hour, a 150-watt metal halide bulb would burn your skin if touched, T5 fluorescents would be uncomfortably hot, and LED aquarium lighting would only be warm to the touch.


The former homeowner took all the filtration in the move, but that was fine because we had decided to upgrade anyway. For a year prior to setting up this reef system, I had been slowly adding solid carbon dosing to my clients’ saltwater fish-only and reef systems to great effect. Solid carbon dosing is a method by which biodegradable plastic-like pellets are fluidized in a media reactor. The material the pellets are made from acts as both food source and colonizing surface for beneficial bacteria that consume nitrate and phosphate on a 1:1 basis.

It is important to place the effluent from the media reactor that you are using to fluidize the bio-pellets close to the intake of a protein skimmer. The bacteria are sloughed off of the surfaces of the pellets as they collide and are easily picked up by the skimmer, thus removing them, along with the nitrate and phosphate they utilized from the system.

People trying solid carbon dosing for the first time in an established saltwater aquarium quickly notice that their protein skimmer pulls out more and darker skimmate once the bacteria have established themselves. This may take around a month depending on whether you use a bacterial booster or not. To feed the bio-pellet reactor, I plumbed a fitting to branch off of the main pump and used a small ball valve to regulate the flow.

Choosing an external main pump in this situation was easy, since it is very well known that submersible pumps transfer much more heat to the aquarium water than do those that are mounted outside of the sump (a sump is a glass or acrylic tank that sits underneath the aquarium and houses all the filtration). I sized the main pump, choosing one that was pressure rated rather than volume rated.

Most external water pumps have two versions: volume-rated pumps and pressure-rated pumps. The pressure-rated pumps are designed to handle more back pressure without losing as much pumping volume as a volume-rated pump will. I always use pressure-rated pumps if I know that I am going to branch off of the main line to power a media reactor, push through a chiller, or run through an ultraviolet sterilizer. I also intentionally chose a pump that would move a couple hundred more gallons per hour (gph) than was required for the aquarium turnover rate, because I would be diverting that amount to power the media reactor.

Sump and Skimmer

The protein skimmer I used was a venturi-driven model with a needle wheel impeller. I used a space-saver model in which the water pump that powers the skimmer is located underneath it. This way, it takes up very little space in the small, acrylic sump.

The built-in, submersible pump that powers this skimmer uses very little electricity, especially when compared to older skimmer types that utilize a large, high-pressure pump that would only create more heat for the system to deal with. The acrylic sump was custom made to fit exactly the space I needed under the aquarium. I had it built to exact specs by a local fish store.

I employed a 100-micron filter bag where tile drain pipe coming from the aquarium brings water into the sump. This is a great way to polish the aquarium water and remove small particles floating around in the water column. Once a week or as needed, this bag is taken outside, hosed out with a pressure nozzle on a garden hose, wrung out to remove excess tap water, and put back into place.

Evaporative Loss Top-Off

I equipped the aquarium with an automatic evaporation top-off system in order to maintain a constant water level in the sump. As water evaporates from the system, an equal amount of fresh water is put back into the system. A sensor located in the sump tells a small, submersible pump located in the top-off reservoir when to turn on or shut off depending where the water level is in relation to this sensor.

Maintaining a constant water level in the sump is important both for the protein skimmer to work efficiently and to ensure that the main pump does not run dry. I keep the reservoir filled with purified water (RO/DI) because when water evaporates, it leaves behind nearly all of the substances dissolved in it. These substances are known as TDS (total dissolved solids) and include minerals such as calcium and magnesium carbonate and sodium chloride.

When a saltwater aquarium loses volume due to evaporation, it is fresh water that you must add back into the system, not salt water. This highly purified water has next to no mineral content or pH buffering ability, so l have the top-off go through a kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide) stirrer before entering the system.

If aquarium evaporation is too high, it can be dangerous to run kalkwasser in line with your top-off. You don’t want to dose too much at one time, as it is a very caustic basic substance (pH of 12 after initial mixing with water). To prevent overdosing, I only keep about a tablespoon of calcium hydroxide in the stirrer at any given time. Between this and bi-weekly water changes (10 gallons at a time), all the necessary elements required by soft corals and large-polyped stony (LPS) corals are taken care of.

This system was designed to evaporate at a great rate because one of the best ways to cool water temperature down is through the use of fans blowing across the water surface, which causes massive evaporation. Besides the previously mentioned exhaust fan in the ceiling above the lights, I also ventilated the bottom cabinetry to help remove hot, humid air. I cut out a square in the drywall, installed a ventilation grate, and mounted a quiet, 4-inch fan that blows out of this grate.


Though no chiller was used to cool the water, a heater was necessary to keep the water temperature from dropping too low at night in the cooler months. Here in southeast Texas winters are not usually very cold, but we do experience temperature swings during the fall and winter that can catch an aquarium off guard and cause its inhabitants’ lower, making immune systems to lower, making them more susceptible to parasites and diseases.

Therefore, I use a heater as at safety net to ensure that the temperature does not get too low. I use an external heater controller instead of relying on the controls inside the heater. A heater is no place to skimp. When your aquarium contains several thousand dollars of sensitive corals and fish, you don’t want to leave things to chance.

Overview of Installation

By using energy-efficient LED aquarium lighting with a strong-yet-quiet bathroom exhaust fan mounted in the ceiling, external water pumps instead of submersible, and ventilating the cabinet below where the filtration is located, I was able to avoid installing a chiller or this system. The ambient temperature in the house stays around 76°, and the water temperature of the 90-gallon, in-wall reef averages 80° to 82°. To find out more, you can check out In Wall Reef Aquarium.

Is There Such a Thing as a Maintenance Free Aquarium

A maintenance free aquarium – no work at all! Just view and enjoy the coral colours and the various reef fish. Many or perhaps all aquarists would tend to call that aquatic heaven – maybe.

Is it possible though? Is there a way that the aquarist can design a marine system where, once all is settled and mature, there is nothing else to do?

The first thing is to compare the aquarium to the wild reef. Yes, there are the same kind of inhabitants in the aquarium as on the wild reef, just fewer of them. Also, there are far fewer species of livestock on the captive reef. So, there’s the first point – the wild reef has far greater diversity of life. The different species have their own niche on the wild reef, each having a food source. There are some overlaps of course but generally it is all very well organised. Nature has everything under control. The first problem that the aquarist is likely to face is in making sure that all potential difficulties are dealt with, from dealing with different forms of nuisance algae to having enough food for fish if kept.

So what if fish are not kept, just a reef with corals. This immediately makes the question of water quality easier to deal with, as the wastes from the fish are gone. In addition, there isn’t any need to feed the fish. So, if the aquarium filtration is excellent, such as live rock and a deep sand bed, will that remove maintenance?

The corals need looking at now. The hard corals generally need considerable light, but that isn’t a particular problem, with the availability of halide bulbs and the fast up and coming LED Aquarium lights. They also require a sufficient level of calcium, magnesium etc which has to be provided. So in comes the calcium reactor, which can supply calcium along with magnesium, and probably other minerals in traces, if the correct media is used. That solves that. Wait a minute though, the calcium reactor needs servicing on occasion, and also the media needs renewal periodically.

What about soft corals? These can exist with less light, fluorescent tubes often being employed. They also need less calcium. It is argued, from anecdotal reports, that the addition of iodine is good for soft coral growth and health, but as this is not scientifically proven (as far as I know) it will be ignored. There isn’t any absolute need to feed certain soft corals, they grow without it. So the maintenance free aquarium idea is intact at the moment.

The marine system is set up with a live rock reef, the live rock being in sufficient quantity. The rock filtration is backed up by a DSB. The system is stocked with hardy soft corals. The lighting cycle is controlled by electric timers. There is a very efficient and properly set up protein skimmer in use.

The aquarist watches carefully until he/she sees what type of algae appears. Snails are introduced to the aquarium to control this. This is successful.

An automatic top-up system using reverse osmosis water is employed. Hey, we’re maintenance free!

No we’re not. Film algae appears on the viewing glasses and the snails attack it but have no ability to ‘keep it clean,’ efficient as they might be. The DSB needs feeding to maintain the population of minute life forms which keep it healthy. The reef rocks need to be ‘de-dusted’ occasionally. The lighting tubes need to be replaced periodically. Seawater quality, so important, needs to be tested routinely.

Seawater quality brings up another question, and this is aquarium water changes. The seawater change amount varies system to system, aquarists knowing, after a period, what the system requires. All aquarists change seawater though. There have been those who have experimented (or tried to save money) without, but problems of various sorts have arisen.

So they need to be done.

No, a marine aquarium system cannot be maintenance free. The move towards natural methods such as live rock, DSB’s, algae filtration etc has improved things immensely. Captive reefs run much closer to how Nature intended nowadays. Add to this the use of highly efficient protein skimmers, calcium reactors, electronically controlled seawater circulation, controlled temperature, accurate water level top-up systems, anti-nitrate reactors, anti- phosphate reactors, sophisticated lighting systems etc and the system is indeed looking after itself to a considerable extent. Correct livestock in the aquarium, not only corals but snails etc enhances self support. Experimentation by advanced aquarists goes on and in the future other innovative methods of control and aquarium maintenance may come into use.

A completely hands-off system will never materialise in my view. There is always something there that ‘needs doing,’ be it a water change, cleaning the glass free of algae, changing media etc. Thank goodness I say. One of the joys of this hobby is the knowledge that actions are helping maintain such interesting life.

Also, in the extremely unlikely event that a hands-off system did materialize, what aquarist could keep their hands off?

Basic equipment required for Setting up a sucessful marine Aquarium tank

Setting up your new tank

This seem to be one of the most fun/ interesting and also tiring stage which many reefer like and dislike. If you are going to want your new or used tank, wash out your tank only with fresh water only! Do not use soap or detergents, as soap residue left behind will be harmful for your saltwater fish and corals.

You are recommanded to test your aquarium for any leakage by filling it with fresh water to check for leaks. If it passes the leak test, drain the fresh water from the aquarium. You can start to affix your tank background at this time. For marine tanks, a black background can help the fish colors stand out more. Deep blue is another popular color choice and it can help create the illusion of depth.

Fixing up the reefing equipment

Next you can start fixing up your equipment in your sump tank to test it’s functionality and any leakage from the equipments with fresh water before filling the tank later with saltwater.

1) Set up your new Tank: Try to buy the biggest tank you can afford with your budget. The bigger it is , the lesser chance for an error .

2) Lighting : Choose a suitable lighting for your marine tank is important as it affect the health of your corals. Basically there are ; ower compact fluorescent, high output fluorescent, metal halide and LEDS. I high recommend led aquarium lights for your aquarium tanks.

3) Tank filtration setup :

Mechanical filtration- Having a good protein skimmer is the most important piece of mechanical filtration you can have for a reef tank. Using basic sponge / filer wood will also help to remove particles out of your water.

Chemical filtration – chemical filteration invlove using various media to remove harmful chemicals i.e; Amonia, P04 ect..

Biological filtration – This is the most important aspect of a successful setting up of a marine aquarium tank. This usually involves using a Biological filter media for bacertica colonical to live on and break down harmful waste in the tank water.

The above provide some basic information on setting up a successful marine aquarium tank, and this journey involve constant research of information which also make this hobby fun.

Top Considerations for the Best Aquarium Lighting Systems

Proper aquarium lighting is fundamental for a number of reasons. Light allows you to observe and admire fish in their natural habitat. In addition, with the right type of lighting, the inhabitants in the aquarium are able to survive. Besides fish, there are other organisms and plants, especially photosynthetic ones, which derive energy from this light. Therefore, fish tank lights are not only the main source of light, they are the only source. Right from the beginning, you should know that light is so important in all aquarium systems. The behavior of fish in an ecosystem depends on the amount of light filtering through the water.

If this is your first time to keep fish in an aquarium, then it is important for you to know the different options available. It does not matter how simple or sophisticated your aquarium system is. There are several categories ofaquarium lighting namely normal, compact and high intensity. The first two use fluorescent lights while the third uses metal halide lights. More recently, LED aquarium lights have joined the foray of fish tank lights. Fluorescent lights are considered to be the top choice for aquariums where you intend to keep saltwater and freshwater fish. Most hobbyists will tell you of the versatility of these lights.

In aquarium lighting, you have a wide choice of bulbs and fixtures. Take for instance, the compact fluorescent lights. They have a higher output than their standard compatriots. In the place of single tubes, they utilize several of them in one fixture. Hence, a single compact fluorescent is able to do the task handled by two or more standard fluorescent bulbs. In the end you find that it helps you utilize the available lighting space. When it comes to maintenance, there is no difference between these fish tank lights and the standard types. Other benefits include low emission of heat and low maintenance cost. There is also a wide variety to choose from.

Going to the metal halide lights, these are also known as HID (high intensity discharge) aquarium lightingfixtures. They comprise of glass bulbs interconnected through wires. When electric charge passes through the glass tubes, they produce light by virtue of the material in them. These materials include metal salts and gases which are ideal for light production. Halide lights are most ideal for reef aquarium lighting. This is mainly because of the types of fish found in such aquariums require high intensity light. Metal halide lights are the first choice for huge aquariums especially where the depth goes beyond 24 inches.

When choosing aquarium lighting fixtures, you need to consider the needs of the fish you are putting in there as well as your own. A fish tank lamp is more than a source of light. It brings out the overall beauty of the aquarium besides sustaining the life therein. Always ensure that you use the right lighting systems for your aquarium. Seek help from experts in this area; share your ideas and how you want the finished product to look like.  Highly recommended aquarium led lighting.

No More Overheat By Using LED Aquarium Lights

LED aquarium lights may survive for many years when you manage them diligently. Basically, they may remain the primary supply of lighting within your aquarium for approximately 5 years. Additionally, they don’t possess the typical overheating issue that a lot of regular light bulbs possess. They produce nearly minor temperature, that is certainly why they go longer. Water inside aquarium definitely will absorb the heat which might tamper with the right living conditions for fish.

A further depth which makes these corms excellent is the look of them relating to color choice and designs. Based on the majority of previous users, these products are really easy to customize. Though they’ve several advantages to them, here are a few difficulties you should know first. The issues you need to learn is how people select the LED aquarium lights. You will find specific specifications for different kinds of aquatic tanks. For instance, you may have freshwater fish which normally reside in rivers and lakes.

They are the well-known tropical fish too, such as the guppies and cichlids. There are freshwater plants too. Saltwater pets and fish normally obtainable in the oceans are some other cases. They include the sharks, ocean stars and cucumbers and so on. If you would like maintain and nurture them correctly, you then would have to add saline water and appropriate lighting source to the fish tank. An additional kind accessible includes the reef tanks, featuring not only your fish, but also life corals, sand and so on.

Lastly, anything you own at home might be brackish water fish that will survive in both fresh and saline water habitats. Commonly, when choosing the best LED lighting for them, you would have to understand what could be ideal lights for freshwater pets. Aquarium tank light is usually a complicated issue, needing you to examine widely to help you realize all of the specifications. Reported by some specialists in this area, you have to deal with the watts per gallon of water the aquarium contains.

Additional aspects are the PAR, lumens per watt, plant light conditions and so on. In case you are thinking to purchase the right bulbs, test LED green styles. They are recyclable and they are made from a solid polycarbonate tube. Which means they’ve a minimal risk of breaking compared to glass bulbs. Furthermore, this stuff is water-resistant when you set this light bulbwithin the water in the aquariums. Above all, LED aquarium lights are secure and they can’t put the animals or even you at any danger.

A Beginner’s Guide to Community Fish Tanks

Keeping a diverse and colourful community of fish can make your aquarium highly attractive, ensuring that it is a focal point of the room. Whilst your choice of fish tank is important however, it is also vital to choose fish that can coexist in terms of behaviour and habitat.

There are many budding fish keepers that simply opt for the most colourful fish possible when creating their first community. Despite the importance of aesthetics though it is important to make sure your fish can live at the same water temperature, are suited to similar habitats and also that they will not eat or attack each other.

As a first timer or beginner the best advice is to opt for fish that are hardy and can adapt to environmental changes which may result from your mistakes. Additionally, it is advisable to buy fish that aren’t too expensive in the early stages of your fish keeping as it is likely that some will die as you attempt to keep the water quality stable and acquire the skills to keep your fish healthy. Remember that a larger fish tank will be more forgiving than a smaller one when you first start out due to the larger volume of water.

When selecting fish for your tank it is advisable to choose fish that are peaceful rather than aggressive. Aggressive species should really be left to more experienced handlers as they can cause the death of other fish due to biting, infection of wounds and stress. It is also worth bearing in mind that even relatively placid fish can exhibit behaviours such as fin-nipping so if you are choosing fish with delicate fins, it is wise to be extra careful about the other fish in your tank.

5 Key Considerations for Choosing Your Fish

  • Size of Your Fish Tank
    The size of aquarium you choose will determine how many and also the types of fish you can choose. For instance fish that are sensitive to poor water conditions will typically do better in a larger, less crowded tank.
  • Colours and Patterns
    Naturally you want a good selection of fish that vary in colours, size and pattern rather than a collection of drab colours. Your aquarium is like an evolving piece of art so choosing colours can be tricky; a good tip is to buy your fish one species at a time to balance how they look when you add them to the fish tank.
  • Maintaining you Fish Tank
    Maintenance is a major consideration and as mentioned previously it is easier to maintain larger tanks. However, if you are clever about which fish you choose, for example buying scavengers of bottom feeding fish you can create an environment that is self cleaning to an extent.
  • Predation
    Most fish keepers agree that when choosing fish it is advisable to match them by their mouth size i.e. no fish in your tank should have a mouth large enough to swallow another. You should also consider strictly herbivorous fish within your aquarium.

5 Good Community Fish

The following fish can make good community fish and are ideal for beginners:

Golden Barbs – A very harder and peaceful fish of the Barb species

Glowlight Tetra – Easier to start a new tank with than the Neon Tetra.

Silvertip Tetra – Copper colour with white fin tips, very tolerant.

Swordtails – An attractive and hardy livebearer

Corydorus Catfish – Tough clean-up crew.

Your choice of fish community is of course wholly down to personal preference and even if you do select a fish that is of a placid species there is a chance that an individual may still be aggressive.

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