In Wall Reef Aquarium

In Wall Reef Aquarium

How would you design an in-wall reef aquarium so that a chiller would not be needed? It requires a bit of improvisation, but I accomplished this for a new client.

I received a phone call from a lady who needed me to move the contents of her 90-gallon, in-wall reef aquarium to a free-standing, 120-gallon aquarium in her new home. The gentleman who bought her old house requested an estimate for bringing the 90-gallon back into commission as a reef aquarium. The tank wasn’t big, so I wanted to make sure that I made up for this by equipping it with great filtration and very bright lighting, all without causing too much heat to build up inside the cabinetry.

In Wall Reef Aquarium

In many cases, a chiller would be used to make certain the water temperature does not exceed 80° to 82°F, but not only was there zero space to add a chiller, it is also a huge mistake to put a chiller in a tight, enclosed, poorly ventilated space. A chiller dumps the heat that it removes to cool the water down, just like a window air conditioner, so it will seriously heat up the air in the cabinet. Also, the cooler the air it’s allowed to draw in, the more efficiently it will cool the water.


Right away I knew I was going to use LED aquarium light on this system. LED aquarium lights have come a long way since even a couple of years ago, and using T5 fluorescents or metal halides wouldn’t have worked because too much heat would have been created inside the cabinetry. LEDs do produce some heat, but much less than either of the aforementioned light sources. When left on for an hour, a 150-watt metal halide bulb would burn your skin if touched, T5 fluorescents would be uncomfortably hot, and LED aquarium lighting would only be warm to the touch.


The former homeowner took all the filtration in the move, but that was fine because we had decided to upgrade anyway. For a year prior to setting up this reef system, I had been slowly adding solid carbon dosing to my clients’ saltwater fish-only and reef systems to great effect. Solid carbon dosing is a method by which biodegradable plastic-like pellets are fluidized in a media reactor. The material the pellets are made from acts as both food source and colonizing surface for beneficial bacteria that consume nitrate and phosphate on a 1:1 basis.

It is important to place the effluent from the media reactor that you are using to fluidize the bio-pellets close to the intake of a protein skimmer. The bacteria are sloughed off of the surfaces of the pellets as they collide and are easily picked up by the skimmer, thus removing them, along with the nitrate and phosphate they utilized from the system.

People trying solid carbon dosing for the first time in an established saltwater aquarium quickly notice that their protein skimmer pulls out more and darker skimmate once the bacteria have established themselves. This may take around a month depending on whether you use a bacterial booster or not. To feed the bio-pellet reactor, I plumbed a fitting to branch off of the main pump and used a small ball valve to regulate the flow.

Choosing an external main pump in this situation was easy, since it is very well known that submersible pumps transfer much more heat to the aquarium water than do those that are mounted outside of the sump (a sump is a glass or acrylic tank that sits underneath the aquarium and houses all the filtration). I sized the main pump, choosing one that was pressure rated rather than volume rated.

Most external water pumps have two versions: volume-rated pumps and pressure-rated pumps. The pressure-rated pumps are designed to handle more back pressure without losing as much pumping volume as a volume-rated pump will. I always use pressure-rated pumps if I know that I am going to branch off of the main line to power a media reactor, push through a chiller, or run through an ultraviolet sterilizer. I also intentionally chose a pump that would move a couple hundred more gallons per hour (gph) than was required for the aquarium turnover rate, because I would be diverting that amount to power the media reactor.

Sump and Skimmer

The protein skimmer I used was a venturi-driven model with a needle wheel impeller. I used a space-saver model in which the water pump that powers the skimmer is located underneath it. This way, it takes up very little space in the small, acrylic sump.

The built-in, submersible pump that powers this skimmer uses very little electricity, especially when compared to older skimmer types that utilize a large, high-pressure pump that would only create more heat for the system to deal with. The acrylic sump was custom made to fit exactly the space I needed under the aquarium. I had it built to exact specs by a local fish store.

I employed a 100-micron filter bag where tile drain pipe coming from the aquarium brings water into the sump. This is a great way to polish the aquarium water and remove small particles floating around in the water column. Once a week or as needed, this bag is taken outside, hosed out with a pressure nozzle on a garden hose, wrung out to remove excess tap water, and put back into place.

Evaporative Loss Top-Off

I equipped the aquarium with an automatic evaporation top-off system in order to maintain a constant water level in the sump. As water evaporates from the system, an equal amount of fresh water is put back into the system. A sensor located in the sump tells a small, submersible pump located in the top-off reservoir when to turn on or shut off depending where the water level is in relation to this sensor.

Maintaining a constant water level in the sump is important both for the protein skimmer to work efficiently and to ensure that the main pump does not run dry. I keep the reservoir filled with purified water (RO/DI) because when water evaporates, it leaves behind nearly all of the substances dissolved in it. These substances are known as TDS (total dissolved solids) and include minerals such as calcium and magnesium carbonate and sodium chloride.

When a saltwater aquarium loses volume due to evaporation, it is fresh water that you must add back into the system, not salt water. This highly purified water has next to no mineral content or pH buffering ability, so l have the top-off go through a kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide) stirrer before entering the system.

If aquarium evaporation is too high, it can be dangerous to run kalkwasser in line with your top-off. You don’t want to dose too much at one time, as it is a very caustic basic substance (pH of 12 after initial mixing with water). To prevent overdosing, I only keep about a tablespoon of calcium hydroxide in the stirrer at any given time. Between this and bi-weekly water changes (10 gallons at a time), all the necessary elements required by soft corals and large-polyped stony (LPS) corals are taken care of.

This system was designed to evaporate at a great rate because one of the best ways to cool water temperature down is through the use of fans blowing across the water surface, which causes massive evaporation. Besides the previously mentioned exhaust fan in the ceiling above the lights, I also ventilated the bottom cabinetry to help remove hot, humid air. I cut out a square in the drywall, installed a ventilation grate, and mounted a quiet, 4-inch fan that blows out of this grate.


Though no chiller was used to cool the water, a heater was necessary to keep the water temperature from dropping too low at night in the cooler months. Here in southeast Texas winters are not usually very cold, but we do experience temperature swings during the fall and winter that can catch an aquarium off guard and cause its inhabitants’ lower, making immune systems to lower, making them more susceptible to parasites and diseases.

Therefore, I use a heater as at safety net to ensure that the temperature does not get too low. I use an external heater controller instead of relying on the controls inside the heater. A heater is no place to skimp. When your aquarium contains several thousand dollars of sensitive corals and fish, you don’t want to leave things to chance.

Overview of Installation

By using energy-efficient LED aquarium lighting with a strong-yet-quiet bathroom exhaust fan mounted in the ceiling, external water pumps instead of submersible, and ventilating the cabinet below where the filtration is located, I was able to avoid installing a chiller or this system. The ambient temperature in the house stays around 76°, and the water temperature of the 90-gallon, in-wall reef averages 80° to 82°. To find out more, you can check out In Wall Reef Aquarium.

Is There Such a Thing as a Maintenance Free Aquarium

A maintenance free aquarium – no work at all! Just view and enjoy the coral colours and the various reef fish. Many or perhaps all aquarists would tend to call that aquatic heaven – maybe.

Is it possible though? Is there a way that the aquarist can design a marine system where, once all is settled and mature, there is nothing else to do?

The first thing is to compare the aquarium to the wild reef. Yes, there are the same kind of inhabitants in the aquarium as on the wild reef, just fewer of them. Also, there are far fewer species of livestock on the captive reef. So, there’s the first point – the wild reef has far greater diversity of life. The different species have their own niche on the wild reef, each having a food source. There are some overlaps of course but generally it is all very well organised. Nature has everything under control. The first problem that the aquarist is likely to face is in making sure that all potential difficulties are dealt with, from dealing with different forms of nuisance algae to having enough food for fish if kept.

So what if fish are not kept, just a reef with corals. This immediately makes the question of water quality easier to deal with, as the wastes from the fish are gone. In addition, there isn’t any need to feed the fish. So, if the aquarium filtration is excellent, such as live rock and a deep sand bed, will that remove maintenance?

The corals need looking at now. The hard corals generally need considerable light, but that isn’t a particular problem, with the availability of halide bulbs and the fast up and coming LED Aquarium lights. They also require a sufficient level of calcium, magnesium etc which has to be provided. So in comes the calcium reactor, which can supply calcium along with magnesium, and probably other minerals in traces, if the correct media is used. That solves that. Wait a minute though, the calcium reactor needs servicing on occasion, and also the media needs renewal periodically.

What about soft corals? These can exist with less light, fluorescent tubes often being employed. They also need less calcium. It is argued, from anecdotal reports, that the addition of iodine is good for soft coral growth and health, but as this is not scientifically proven (as far as I know) it will be ignored. There isn’t any absolute need to feed certain soft corals, they grow without it. So the maintenance free aquarium idea is intact at the moment.

The marine system is set up with a live rock reef, the live rock being in sufficient quantity. The rock filtration is backed up by a DSB. The system is stocked with hardy soft corals. The lighting cycle is controlled by electric timers. There is a very efficient and properly set up protein skimmer in use.

The aquarist watches carefully until he/she sees what type of algae appears. Snails are introduced to the aquarium to control this. This is successful.

An automatic top-up system using reverse osmosis water is employed. Hey, we’re maintenance free!

No we’re not. Film algae appears on the viewing glasses and the snails attack it but have no ability to ‘keep it clean,’ efficient as they might be. The DSB needs feeding to maintain the population of minute life forms which keep it healthy. The reef rocks need to be ‘de-dusted’ occasionally. The lighting tubes need to be replaced periodically. Seawater quality, so important, needs to be tested routinely.

Seawater quality brings up another question, and this is aquarium water changes. The seawater change amount varies system to system, aquarists knowing, after a period, what the system requires. All aquarists change seawater though. There have been those who have experimented (or tried to save money) without, but problems of various sorts have arisen.

So they need to be done.

No, a marine aquarium system cannot be maintenance free. The move towards natural methods such as live rock, DSB’s, algae filtration etc has improved things immensely. Captive reefs run much closer to how Nature intended nowadays. Add to this the use of highly efficient protein skimmers, calcium reactors, electronically controlled seawater circulation, controlled temperature, accurate water level top-up systems, anti-nitrate reactors, anti- phosphate reactors, sophisticated lighting systems etc and the system is indeed looking after itself to a considerable extent. Correct livestock in the aquarium, not only corals but snails etc enhances self support. Experimentation by advanced aquarists goes on and in the future other innovative methods of control and aquarium maintenance may come into use.

A completely hands-off system will never materialise in my view. There is always something there that ‘needs doing,’ be it a water change, cleaning the glass free of algae, changing media etc. Thank goodness I say. One of the joys of this hobby is the knowledge that actions are helping maintain such interesting life.

Also, in the extremely unlikely event that a hands-off system did materialize, what aquarist could keep their hands off?

Basic equipment required for Setting up a sucessful marine Aquarium tank

Setting up your new tank

This seem to be one of the most fun/ interesting and also tiring stage which many reefer like and dislike. If you are going to want your new or used tank, wash out your tank only with fresh water only! Do not use soap or detergents, as soap residue left behind will be harmful for your saltwater fish and corals.

You are recommanded to test your aquarium for any leakage by filling it with fresh water to check for leaks. If it passes the leak test, drain the fresh water from the aquarium. You can start to affix your tank background at this time. For marine tanks, a black background can help the fish colors stand out more. Deep blue is another popular color choice and it can help create the illusion of depth.

Fixing up the reefing equipment

Next you can start fixing up your equipment in your sump tank to test it’s functionality and any leakage from the equipments with fresh water before filling the tank later with saltwater.

1) Set up your new Tank: Try to buy the biggest tank you can afford with your budget. The bigger it is , the lesser chance for an error .

2) Lighting : Choose a suitable lighting for your marine tank is important as it affect the health of your corals. Basically there are ; ower compact fluorescent, high output fluorescent, metal halide and LEDS. I high recommend led aquarium lights for your aquarium tanks.

3) Tank filtration setup :

Mechanical filtration- Having a good protein skimmer is the most important piece of mechanical filtration you can have for a reef tank. Using basic sponge / filer wood will also help to remove particles out of your water.

Chemical filtration – chemical filteration invlove using various media to remove harmful chemicals i.e; Amonia, P04 ect..

Biological filtration – This is the most important aspect of a successful setting up of a marine aquarium tank. This usually involves using a Biological filter media for bacertica colonical to live on and break down harmful waste in the tank water.

The above provide some basic information on setting up a successful marine aquarium tank, and this journey involve constant research of information which also make this hobby fun.

Top Considerations for the Best Aquarium Lighting Systems

Proper aquarium lighting is fundamental for a number of reasons. Light allows you to observe and admire fish in their natural habitat. In addition, with the right type of lighting, the inhabitants in the aquarium are able to survive. Besides fish, there are other organisms and plants, especially photosynthetic ones, which derive energy from this light. Therefore, fish tank lights are not only the main source of light, they are the only source. Right from the beginning, you should know that light is so important in all aquarium systems. The behavior of fish in an ecosystem depends on the amount of light filtering through the water.

If this is your first time to keep fish in an aquarium, then it is important for you to know the different options available. It does not matter how simple or sophisticated your aquarium system is. There are several categories ofaquarium lighting namely normal, compact and high intensity. The first two use fluorescent lights while the third uses metal halide lights. More recently, LED aquarium lights have joined the foray of fish tank lights. Fluorescent lights are considered to be the top choice for aquariums where you intend to keep saltwater and freshwater fish. Most hobbyists will tell you of the versatility of these lights.

In aquarium lighting, you have a wide choice of bulbs and fixtures. Take for instance, the compact fluorescent lights. They have a higher output than their standard compatriots. In the place of single tubes, they utilize several of them in one fixture. Hence, a single compact fluorescent is able to do the task handled by two or more standard fluorescent bulbs. In the end you find that it helps you utilize the available lighting space. When it comes to maintenance, there is no difference between these fish tank lights and the standard types. Other benefits include low emission of heat and low maintenance cost. There is also a wide variety to choose from.

Going to the metal halide lights, these are also known as HID (high intensity discharge) aquarium lightingfixtures. They comprise of glass bulbs interconnected through wires. When electric charge passes through the glass tubes, they produce light by virtue of the material in them. These materials include metal salts and gases which are ideal for light production. Halide lights are most ideal for reef aquarium lighting. This is mainly because of the types of fish found in such aquariums require high intensity light. Metal halide lights are the first choice for huge aquariums especially where the depth goes beyond 24 inches.

When choosing aquarium lighting fixtures, you need to consider the needs of the fish you are putting in there as well as your own. A fish tank lamp is more than a source of light. It brings out the overall beauty of the aquarium besides sustaining the life therein. Always ensure that you use the right lighting systems for your aquarium. Seek help from experts in this area; share your ideas and how you want the finished product to look like.  Highly recommended aquarium led lighting.

No More Overheat By Using LED Aquarium Lights

LED aquarium lights may survive for many years when you manage them diligently. Basically, they may remain the primary supply of lighting within your aquarium for approximately 5 years. Additionally, they don’t possess the typical overheating issue that a lot of regular light bulbs possess. They produce nearly minor temperature, that is certainly why they go longer. Water inside aquarium definitely will absorb the heat which might tamper with the right living conditions for fish.

A further depth which makes these corms excellent is the look of them relating to color choice and designs. Based on the majority of previous users, these products are really easy to customize. Though they’ve several advantages to them, here are a few difficulties you should know first. The issues you need to learn is how people select the LED aquarium lights. You will find specific specifications for different kinds of aquatic tanks. For instance, you may have freshwater fish which normally reside in rivers and lakes.

They are the well-known tropical fish too, such as the guppies and cichlids. There are freshwater plants too. Saltwater pets and fish normally obtainable in the oceans are some other cases. They include the sharks, ocean stars and cucumbers and so on. If you would like maintain and nurture them correctly, you then would have to add saline water and appropriate lighting source to the fish tank. An additional kind accessible includes the reef tanks, featuring not only your fish, but also life corals, sand and so on.

Lastly, anything you own at home might be brackish water fish that will survive in both fresh and saline water habitats. Commonly, when choosing the best LED lighting for them, you would have to understand what could be ideal lights for freshwater pets. Aquarium tank light is usually a complicated issue, needing you to examine widely to help you realize all of the specifications. Reported by some specialists in this area, you have to deal with the watts per gallon of water the aquarium contains.

Additional aspects are the PAR, lumens per watt, plant light conditions and so on. In case you are thinking to purchase the right bulbs, test LED green styles. They are recyclable and they are made from a solid polycarbonate tube. Which means they’ve a minimal risk of breaking compared to glass bulbs. Furthermore, this stuff is water-resistant when you set this light bulbwithin the water in the aquariums. Above all, LED aquarium lights are secure and they can’t put the animals or even you at any danger.

A Beginner’s Guide to Community Fish Tanks

Keeping a diverse and colourful community of fish can make your aquarium highly attractive, ensuring that it is a focal point of the room. Whilst your choice of fish tank is important however, it is also vital to choose fish that can coexist in terms of behaviour and habitat.

There are many budding fish keepers that simply opt for the most colourful fish possible when creating their first community. Despite the importance of aesthetics though it is important to make sure your fish can live at the same water temperature, are suited to similar habitats and also that they will not eat or attack each other.

As a first timer or beginner the best advice is to opt for fish that are hardy and can adapt to environmental changes which may result from your mistakes. Additionally, it is advisable to buy fish that aren’t too expensive in the early stages of your fish keeping as it is likely that some will die as you attempt to keep the water quality stable and acquire the skills to keep your fish healthy. Remember that a larger fish tank will be more forgiving than a smaller one when you first start out due to the larger volume of water.

When selecting fish for your tank it is advisable to choose fish that are peaceful rather than aggressive. Aggressive species should really be left to more experienced handlers as they can cause the death of other fish due to biting, infection of wounds and stress. It is also worth bearing in mind that even relatively placid fish can exhibit behaviours such as fin-nipping so if you are choosing fish with delicate fins, it is wise to be extra careful about the other fish in your tank.

5 Key Considerations for Choosing Your Fish

  • Size of Your Fish Tank
    The size of aquarium you choose will determine how many and also the types of fish you can choose. For instance fish that are sensitive to poor water conditions will typically do better in a larger, less crowded tank.
  • Colours and Patterns
    Naturally you want a good selection of fish that vary in colours, size and pattern rather than a collection of drab colours. Your aquarium is like an evolving piece of art so choosing colours can be tricky; a good tip is to buy your fish one species at a time to balance how they look when you add them to the fish tank.
  • Maintaining you Fish Tank
    Maintenance is a major consideration and as mentioned previously it is easier to maintain larger tanks. However, if you are clever about which fish you choose, for example buying scavengers of bottom feeding fish you can create an environment that is self cleaning to an extent.
  • Predation
    Most fish keepers agree that when choosing fish it is advisable to match them by their mouth size i.e. no fish in your tank should have a mouth large enough to swallow another. You should also consider strictly herbivorous fish within your aquarium.

5 Good Community Fish

The following fish can make good community fish and are ideal for beginners:

Golden Barbs – A very harder and peaceful fish of the Barb species

Glowlight Tetra – Easier to start a new tank with than the Neon Tetra.

Silvertip Tetra – Copper colour with white fin tips, very tolerant.

Swordtails – An attractive and hardy livebearer

Corydorus Catfish – Tough clean-up crew.

Your choice of fish community is of course wholly down to personal preference and even if you do select a fish that is of a placid species there is a chance that an individual may still be aggressive.

Install Aquarium Moonlight to Give Life to Aquatic Organisms

Have you ever thought why the popularity of various kinds of aquarium lighting is increasing with every passing day? The lighting is one of the most significant yet overlooked component of an aquarium. Installation of various kinds of lights inside aquarium enhances its beauty manifold. Moonlight aquarium light, metal halide aquarium light and lunar aquarium light are some kinds of lights commonly used in aquarium. Let’s discuss in detail about these lighting.

Different Lights Installed with Specific Purposes

Moonlight aquarium light is a low-cost and energy-efficient light that is placed above an aquarium. Most of the people have conception that the lights are used to give sparkling effect during night time to aquarium. However, this is one facet of coin. The basic purpose of installing moonlight is stimulating several internal and external biological processes that takes place in the natural moonlight. The light encourages coral and other reef creatures to grow naturally whilst allowing observer to observe them without any disturbance.

Now, talking about lunar aquarium light, these lights promote normal reproduction process in fishes and other marine creatures. These lights are affixed with low wattage LEDs for fulfilling the required purpose and creating shimmering and beautiful effect to an aquarium. Metal Halideaquarium lights come with electronic metal halide ballast and are highly efficient. The lights have long life and produce heat, therefore it is necessary to cool them with the help of fans. These lights are available in various colors and can be obtained in various watts like 6500K, 12000K, 14K, 20K respectively. Some of the most common examples of halide lights are 30” 1*150 HQI Halide + 2X 65+ lunar reef light, power compact lighting, etc.

Regular Fluorescent lights, high and very high output florescent lights, LEDaquarium lights, incandescent bulbs, etc. are some other kinds of lights that are commonly used in aquariums. Some of the lights are placed above and some behind the aquarium. In order to purchase various kinds of aquarium lights, contact online suppliers or manufacturers for the same.

Make Purchase for Aquarium lighting Online

Moonlight aquarium light, metal halide aquarium light, lunar aquarium light and many other kinds of lights can be easily obtained from numerous online suppliers. These suppliers keep on displaying the various products sold by them at their websites. Simply select your product and place order. It is advised to make purchase from authentic suppliers for obtaining quality products. For finding any other information about aquarium lighting, search over the internet.

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So You Want A Marine Aquarium

Maybe a friend’s aquarium or some in a dealer’s have been seen and they are so good – good in more than one way, they are relaxing and the aquarium world is very interesting.

A marine aquarium doesn’t build itself of course; they have to be constructed in such a way that the type of aquarium is properly supported. Without this there are going to be problems and that’s not a pleasure. So there’s a general procedure that should be followed.


Are you willing to give the time? This might seem strange as it’s obvious that putting an aquarium together takes time. The construction stage is fine, the enthusiasm of ‘newness’ is there and the potential aquarist is bubbling over in the desire to get on with it. It’s not only in the initial stages that problems could arise however, it’s later on. There’s weekly maintenance that needs to be done month in month out year in year out. It doesn’t seem problematical at first but it can be when enthusiasm has waned somewhat. So starting a marine aquarium should never be an instant decision – the very fact that livestock are present demands consistency.

Have you the space? Normally the largest aquarium that will fit is chosen, this is the natural choice as big is seen as better. It’s true that a large aquarium has the greater initial visual impact but smaller ones can also be very beautiful and interesting as can be found by browsing the internet. The aquarium shouldn’t be too tight a fit as it could be necessary to get round the sides for maintenance. Mentally picture the aquarium in place – could maintenance be reasonably easily accomplished? There needs to be a power outlet close to the aquarium and this should be accessible once the aquarium is in place. Don’t forget that the aquarium is going to have to stand on something so perhaps a cabinet is required? A sump is a good idea so to  avoid any impact on space could one go in the cabinet beneath the aquarium? Consider the construction of the floor – seawater plus rocks plus aquarium equals considerable weight. Will the floor support it?

What type of aquarium will it be? There are three types, fish only, corals only and mixed reef (fish and corals). This choice has an impact on the equipment that is needed, for example corals need special lighting.

How about the cost of purchase for the equipment? This really is important as mistakes could lead to corner cutting – not the way to start! There is the aquarium of course and any sump that will be used. There could be overflow holes required in the aquarium – will this be DIY or done by a dealer? There is the cabinet if required. Consider the amount of sea salt needed for the initial mix, it isn’t cheap. Then there is the necessary electrical equipment such as sufficiently sized heaters, circulation pumps, the return pump from the sump, canister filter(s) or live rock, a correctly sized protein skimmer and lights plus two timers. Then there are the test kits to monitor the seawater condition. A good way to obtain a general guideline of the cost is to make a list of the needed items then price them from sources on the internet, a magazine or a local dealer.

How much will the livestock cost? The local dealer should have various corals and fish which will permit a guideline to be obtained. This will not be accurate as decisions on what types have not been made but at least knowledge of the general cost of various types can be obtained.

How much will it cost to run? Feeding the livestock is not costly. Sea salt is needed for routine weekly partial seawater changes. Test kits will need renewing from time to time. There is the electrical cost which is easy to estimate if a list of required items has been made. These items each have a wattage (W) – add these up. This will come to part of a kilowatt or a number of kilowatts and a part per hour. The cost of a kilowatt (1000 watts) will be known so the daily, weekly etc cost can be determined. For a day just multiply by 24 and so on. Heaters  and lights will not be on all the time so divide the wattage by two for these for estimate purposes.

Is it all too expensive? There’s no need to give up yet. Consider a smaller aquarium. This will reduce the cost of nearly everything. However, new purchase and running estimates need to be considered to be sure, if it is still too expensive or if there is a doubt, don’t start.

Is everything acceptable? Wonderful, the initial stages are complete, the aquarium, cabinet and any sump can be obtained plus other equipment. Some more research will be needed to ensure that the equipment purchased is suitable for the aquarium size and the job it has to do.

Marine aquariums are supposed to be relaxing, the stuff above doesn’t look like it! Marine aquariums are most definitely relaxing – and exciting, and beautiful. That of course is when they’re finished and settled. They won’t be finished and settled if not set up correctly, so they will not be beautiful and definitely not relaxing. The aquarist will face stress because of problems. It isn’t necessary to have every bell and whistle available but the aquarium must have the basic adequate necessities.

There are two important words for marine aquarists and these are research and patience.

If you want to make your auqarium more beautiful, you can purchase a led aqurium light for your aquarium tank.

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Raising Coral In Saltwater Aquariums – Great Tips And Advice

Many people are very passionate about making their home aquarium look like a piece of the ocean that has been transplanted in their homes. Some people will take pains in cultivating their aquarium themselves while some will just like to go out and buy their whole kit, tank, filter, lighting plants fish and all. This may be an easier way to create a good aquarium, however, the fun way is to start with the basics and grow your own fish and plants.

Some people are pretty good at breeding their own fish and have formed groups where they can exchange their home grown aquarium plants, fish and coral as well. There is a certain joy in seeing your efforts take definate shape in the form of aquetic plants and marine life.

Attempting to start a reef in your aquarium is not the sort of advice gurus will dole out to beginers in this hobby. One is advised to start with a small aquarium that houses fish only. Once you have a few months of experience in caring for the fish in the aquarium you can move on to trying your hand at breeding fish, then plants in the aquarium. After about a year you will be rady to try your hand at growing coral in the tank.

Before you rush out to get yourself some coral reef for the tank, remember that you are not just placing a piece of rock to your aquarium. These are actually called Polyps and are tiny invertibrate living organisms. The existance of these polyps in your saltwater tank depends on your ability to provide proper lighting, food and salt water.

In order for the coral reef to survive you must provide good saltwater to the tank at regular intervals. If you change the water abruptly you are likely to send your polyps into a state of shock and ultimately lose them. You will know the coral is in trouble by the discoloring of the reef. In addition you must be able to provide a proper pump to produce a strong current in the water as this is very important for the coral’s survival.

You must never forget that corals are living organisms and require food. Many people of the wrong belief that corals feed like other plants in the water, on photosynthesis. Nothing could be further from the truth. Corals need to be fed, like the other fish in the aquarium, at least 3 times a week. Frozen food is best for coral reef in the tank. Any coral food purchased from the pet store that has been open for more than 5 months must be discarded. Liquid or bottled food is available from the pet store and is best suited for the coral as they do not dirty the aquarium.

Believe it or not large polyps feed on pieces of minced meat! What do you know – from plants to carnivores! However, remember if the polyps are too small they will starve because the large pieces og minced meat will not be of any use to them. So stick to the prepared food from the pet store.

If you have done your research and have a good supply of nutrients from the store you will have your coral reef in your living room in no time at all.

Thanks for your read, learn more:

Brief To Keep Proper Aquarium Lighting

Almost all the aquariums come with lighting already installed, but if you are looking for really different, you can go for led aquarium lighting online shop. On the top of all, the lighting in your aquarium should be enough if it’s fluorescent, if it is in freshwater tanks, while if you are planning for a saltwater aquarium, better lighting is a must.

Fluorescent lighting holds fish the healthiest as it corresponds to the natural light. You should avoid the use of candescent lighting as it emits heat and possibly causing harm to your fish.

If your aquarium contains only fish, its better use 3 watts of lighting for each gallon of water in the tank. This much light will be quite enough to control algae perfectly. More light may trigger the formation of the green algae. Think of change the lights once each 8 months to keep a uniform light level going.

If you are planning to keep your aquarium with plants, you are required to get different arrangement of the lighting. But, often people went for wrong arrangement of the lighting that may result into the plants to wither and die within short period of time. If you want to keep plants flourish and alive longer, install a tri-phosphor tube or full spectrum fluorescent bulb that renders the necessary amount of light. But, a full spectrum bulb with the red, blue, and green parts of the light spectrum can work for most number of setups.

Apart from the fish and plant, if you’re going to add other elements to the mix, such as coral or live rocks your requirement of the light will be more, as corals require large amounts of light, between 5 and 8 watts.

If you are planning to begin with just fish, and then blow up, leverage an aquarium with quad for two tubes that will enable you to so make the arrangement of lighting as per your needs change.

As per your lighting needs to keep the fish, plants, and other features alive and well and to enjoy your aquarium for years to come, make a choice for proper lighting.

Recommend led aquarium lights replace to your Traditional aquarium light.

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